It is spring in Acworth and Dorise has returned. Here is a collection of her journal entries from Ile-a-Vache during March.
Saturday March 1
The place where we are going to live is ideal but it comes at a price –there is no privacy at all. People walk in and out of the house like it is a public facility. They look, they touch, they check out everything. Nicholas and I are the entertainment for the moment, night and day. Around noon the first day I thought they must go home to cook for their kids, but no, they don’t eat in the daytime. Well, don’t those little tikes have to take naps in their beds? Oh no, just at my door step they sleep. I don’t know them well enough yet to figure out which house each child belongs to; no one seems to be looking out for them. They obviously trust the “blanc” as a watcher.
Sunday March 2
We are visiting our new digs again today and hope to move in tomorrow. To write every day helps to keep the days apart. Last night I spent the evening reading and writing with a little group. It is the second time and it is amazing how fast they progress with just a little one-on-one time. They are all eager, even hungry to read and I get to practice my Creole. The children are live-in helpers for the family next door, a common arrangement in Haiti.
Loggan is ten years old and is the big helper with the animals and getting water, carrying big loads from here to there.
Darline must be nine. She is the playmate and babysitter for the family’s children.
Marie Michelle is 11. She does all the cooking, cleaning up and the endless amount of laundry accumulated from the entire household. She gets to go to school the least of the children as her work takes most of the day. They are all more or less at the same reading level.
So many children get abandoned, left behind to fend for themselves. Sometimes they get lucky and end up in a family like Sauny’s, where they are fed and treated with respect. Loggan is my guide today as it is Sunday and they don’t have too much work. Without him I probably would never find my way around through all the little goat trails. He constantly calls me back if I am ahead “Hey, par ici”.
Sue, I don’t know what I would have done without the back pack you fixed for me before leaving, Thank You!! At all times it is grafted on my back, most times with heavy loads. The ginger tea, Gail, is a god-send and is everyone’s favorite breakfast drink, other than coca-cola. Everyone is intrigued with the tea bags. They grow ginger here, but don’t ever make tea with it.
Monday March 3
Yippeee! It’s the first time in three weeks I have my own room. We’ve moved to our little shanty that has a freshly painted inside and one room with curtains. I hate curtains, but let me explain. Here on Ile-vache there are no rules or set times for visiting. Faces are a permanent fixture in your windows and doors. Being right in the center of the most beautiful area on the island with the most gentle and caring people, it is a great spot, but there are times when I like to change my underwear without being watched. I sleep on two loudspeakers (big ones) with no mattress, but it is off the ground.
Tuesday March 4
Nicolas brought two soccer balls. The first charming little hooligan to get hold of one, Pascal, is a 17 year old who lives with his aunt tells us he does not go to school because he can’t pay for it. We hear similar stories from many young people we talk to; “can you give us money to go to school?” Anyway, Pascal got the ball. They form teams all the time around a make-believe goal. They also play in the little clearing between palm trees and houses. At one point the ball hits a building and half of the wall caves in. A very angry owner comes screaming and yelling the next morning to Sauny saying it is the fault of the “blanc” that his wall fell in and he wants a bag of cement. Nicolas agrees to buy the cement. The next day I see Pascal and tell him I am pissed at him for not taking responsibility. He says, “well you see, if you would buy me a DVD player I would not be playing ball so no wall would get broken.”
Wednesday, March 5
Had a great day yesterday running errands on my own in Cayes. I sailed on a big Haitian boat with no seats just a huge hull loaded with vitivier. It is a very aromatic root that is used to make soaps and perfume. Its smelled lovely and I was perched on the top with a great view on the ocean. On my way back I got to go with the orphanage’s boat. It was fast and not overloaded which is much safer. They dropped me off right in front of our house as I was loaded with 10 gallons of drinking water. Nicolas did some woodwork all day with the people from the village and when the women found out that he can sharpen knives and put handles back on he was in big demand all day. Just around the corner on the beach is where the handicap children from the orphanage come to swim and I spent the first day with them playing with the ball, making sandcastles, feeding,them and holding them in the water.
• Of the 19 handicapped children only 3 of them can walk, the rest just lay all shriveled up, 2 on one stretcher. To come to the beach they have to be carried down the hill and put in a boat, so there is a rotation system for who gets to come.
• We took them in a little floating contraption, some even know how to swim or float on their own. They love the feel of the waves. You do have to hold on to them to keep them from rolling over.
• I brought that famous soccer ball and we played and played even Little Junior who can’t sit up managed to kick with his feet.
• Francine, one of the caregivers made a big hole in the sand and sat Junior up by burying him up to his chest. It is the only way he can sit up. I guess back home we would have some kind of chair to strap him into.
• Then I drove back with them in the boat. All the kids lay in the bottom and at the arrival they get carried up the hill on stretchers. I carry two small children. Richardson is glued to me and I don’t even have to hold him.
• At the orphanage I got to meet the last newcomer. Sophia weighs 2 pounds and is premature, born at 6 months. Marianne, all the singlets are too big for her. I never saw so small a human being. I did not even touch her, afraid she would break. She looks so tiny in her big crib. Tomorrow I will make some netting to drop over the bed so no flies can swallow her.
• A French man. Etienne, one of the major sponsors of the orphanage just came with a big solar cooker so I am back in baking as of tomorrow.
• It is a treat to be here at the beach as there are no bugs. I mean no mosquitoes, just where we live, as soon as you get away from the shore, it is another story.
• On the beach there are a lot of petipeti ants. They don’t attack you unless you step on them
Thursday, March 6: Market day.
Went to Sister Flora at the orphanage first thing to bake bread in the solar oven, but the sun is behind clouds a lot so it took forever and looked very pale, but delicious just the same. It is special when you have been living with out it. I came back to Canobert (the name of the village we live in,) to finish the rest of the dough on the grill.
Before too long, I had a crowd. I distributed the flat bread as fast as it was coming off the grill. More people came. They all accept a piece, eat it, but without comment, no questions.
And today I splurged and bought a piece of foam for $20 from Les Cayes.
A neighbor was going to the city and asked if I needed anything. As the speakers will be in use for the weekend I just could not face the cement floor with the mices and coacrotches.
Friday, March 7
At 7 in the morning already 30 people were at the site to start the building of the school. To 3 pick-axes, 2 shovels, 3 hoes, about 10 buckets, add the wheelbarrow to the collection of tools, and we are off and running.
It took me a minute to figure out the system but eventually I was picking up rock that kept surfacing as the pick-axes, in unison, hit the hard ground. The women carried the 5 gallon buckets filled with dirt down the hill. It was like a beehive of activity, a lot of singing, fast talking.
More people came, more buckets appeared, but no more tools. We took turns with the shovels, axes and hoes. After about 3 hours, people started to leave till I found myself alone to admire the result. A big hill of dirt was under the mango trees and a vague perimeter of flat ground of about 5 m by 9 m was visible. What hard working people!!
From there I ran to my other job with the handicapped orphans. A different set got to come with all the ones that can walk. Richardson is there, so happy to see me, as I am his new maman. Again we play for hours with the ball just rolling it back and forth with a lot of persistence. You can sense a shift in the motion especially the spastic ones seem to gain better control and aim.
It is a thrill to see and hear the most rewarding smiles and screams from the children over the simple pleasure of rolling a ball.
Their ages run from 3 to 18. Francois, a grown young man of 18, is top heavy and can’t sit up. It is very difficult to get a good hold of him, but he always smiles when you look at him.
Later that evening we return to our host family to be with them for the wake of Dieulita who will be buried tomorrow.
Saturday, March 8
The air is filled with sadness as the boat carrying the body back from Les Cayes sails in first thing in the morning, escorted by 5 other boats overflowing with mourners. I have never seen so many people filling the boats, all dressed in their best. It was already hot at 9, the wailing and thrashing of the mourners is overwhelming. The church is packed to capacity and lots have to stay outside.
The women are fainting with sorrow. As they get pulled outside for fresh air more squeeze in. There is a women unconscious at my feet surrounded by relatives. They pour water on her face, slap her cheeks all in vain. She would just not come around. It seemed to last forever. I am worried. Should I interfere by just asking the people to give her more air, a little more space? But I am the only blanc. After what seems an eternity I hear a moan.
The church deal lasts till 2 in the afternoon, then the climb up a very long steep hill, to the family’s house where is Dieulita will be resting in a mausoleum in the middle of the yard.
Sunday, March 9
I went on a 5 hour walk around the island and throw seeds of flowers and herbs on my trail as the community garden will not happen for lack of water. It has been raining a titsy bit every night but not enough to fill the buckets that I places strategically around our house. I get to collect more from the inside as we have many holes in the roof.
I have been sharing all the seeds Seeds of Change so generously donated, with some farmers who have gardens on the height of the island.
Monday, March 10
It is vacation week before Easter weekend. All the school children had composition exams and are on break. I said that everyday during break I would take a group of 10 children to do arts and crafts and decorate the school. The first day 50 children came. I had to be strict. I counted ten picking the tallest, hoping it would be the same age rank. The rest I told to come back tomorrow choosing another group of 10 and so on for the rest of the week.
By the time I gave them the paper, they where 15; not much room around the tables. I let it go. Not enough pencils and a lot of mayhem. This was the 9 to 12 year old group. I asked them to write their name and age on the drawings. I couldn’t read any of them other than Loggan’s. When I asked about age, they didn’t know what I meant. I mentioned it later to William, our neighbor and a teacher from another school. He said it was because they were just starting school as a lot of them are orphans or too poor to pay for classes. We made some kites, origami and drawings. After 2 hours I was exhausted, everyone needed my attention -100%- at all times pulling and talking and everyone at the same time.
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Tuesday, March 11 -Town Meeting day in New Hampshire
We did some more digging around the site. We were only 3, as whenever I ask about the next workday, they have to have a committee meeting first. I suggested why not have it right on the site while some are working, others can listen and why not decide that every day from 6 to 10 is working time. Whoever can make it, great. Yes, but this is a novelty and it is better to decide with a meeting first.
Both Nicolas and I have hexenschuss, which means we hurt our backs and yes, are dealing with a little bout of stomach trouble, but the weather is so gorgeous. A little rain would be welcome (as we haul water from a mile away.) It usually rains this time of year, so all of the plants and seeds are in the soil waiting for water. Mostly root vegetables like manioc, potatoes, sweet potatoes, cassava, and some other interesting tubers: the names escape me.
Wednesday, March 12
A day with the orphans. Walked with Junior, (he must be around 8.) If he had a walker he would probably be able to get around better. In the evening 10 children came to our house to do some coloring. It was very special as they behaved super well, sharing the crayons. Angeline (one of the girls in the group) told them right at the start, that if they fight she (meaning me) will kick us all out. It worked like a charm. I still had to tell them at midnight that they have to leave because I needed to go to bed.
Thursday, March 13
Walked probably a mile with Tada, (9 years old,) a lovely little girl who is paralyzed on one side. Again, for lack of a walker she is limited to crawling witch she is very good at, and I feel with a little time and help she might get her strength in the legs. You only need to support her on one side, but all this leaves me tired and crippled myself as I do a lot of lifting and weird bending..
Off to read with Ti’mairie down the street at her house.
Friday, March 14
Off to Madame Bernard, the name of the town where the orphanage is. It is actually the ‘big’ town on the island. I spent time holding and feeding little Sophia and walked with Tada. She is so happy and willing to walk. I feel it is a matter of days before she can hold up on her own. Nicolas works with school people on the land and finishes a door for William, the neighbor. Now we need to buy the hinges to hang the door. It is been 7 years since William built the house and bought the wood for the door, but now there is no money for the hinges. That will be an easy contribution on my part.
Saturday, March 15
We are off on one of those atrocious fishing boats to go to Les cayes. The boat is just a big hull. Lots of buckets thrown nillie willie every which way. I am perched at an angle on a bucket filled with fish. The whole boat smells of fish. A lot of people are dressed nicely. How do they keep there clothes strain free?
Sunday, March 16
Big walk around the island in the afternoon after spending the morning with the children. Went to Lahat, another beautiful beach with turquoise water and white sand. It has not been developed yet but I understand a hotel is planned.
The cayou nuts are in season with the almond and sometimes people come running out of a little hut to ask if I need roasted nuts. They are delicious fresh off the grill. Nicolas is in constant state of hunger but our stomachs are getting used to one meal a day of rice and beans. I had a vivid dream last night of buying vegetables at Harlow’s farmstand in Westminster.
The choice of vegetables at the markets here is small: cabbage, carrots, oinions, garlic, and tomatoes, usually all squashed as they come from the hills on donkeys. And then the whole panoply of roots like potatoes, kasava and others tubers, that taste all similar. Boiled plaintain is a dish that tastes quite plain. There are a lot of coconut trees but it seems more people than coconuts, so I don’t get to eat as much as I like. The mango trees are loaded but not ready till May, same with the bread fruit.
Monday, March 17
Early, early morning. (6 am) I walked to Mme Bernard to catch the boat for Les Cayes. I visited Myriam, the French women that inspired the first Steiner school in Canobert. Now she lives in Trobec, where she started another new school. A whole team from the orphanage came, seven in all. Myriam used to work with the orphans when she lived on the island. We all got to climb on motorcycles, 3 at a time, to catch the taptap outside of town. Taptaps are public buses. It must have been quite a sight, the 5 blancs with 2 black chidren, You usually don’t see so many blanc taking public transportation. The taptap was a sweaty experience, when you think no more can fit, more people get loaded in.
The new school is a small affair with about 18 kids and 2 teachers. A lot of malnutrition. Myriam said that mostly the children have a hard time focusing with the lack of food in their bellys so she has incorporated a bowl of rice and beans into the lessons. She is researching a wood fired oven to cook more efficiently. I told her that this is what I do, building ovens and teaching how to use them. She was very excited but I am committed to Ile-a -Vache and have to figure out how I can possibly build an oven a days travel from here. There would be a lot of preparation like testing the clay and finding fibers other than straw as a binder.
Tuesday, March 18
Big big working day at the site: more digging by hand, moving rocks that are getting bigger the deeper you dig. The women, who are the carriers of heavy buckets, down the hill thankfully, talk and argue in loud voices. Mostly everybody is hungry, me included, and the work is very chaotic. I am not sure anybody knows the plan. We are just flattening this hillside.
I suggest teams and working on different sides of the terrain to meet in the middle as there is a lot of waiting and getting in each others way.
Have been working on reading with Ti’marie down the road in the evenings. So many young women can’t read and the word is out that I am willing to help them even if all I teach them is to write their name and thenames of their children. There is some kind of night singing outside as it is full moon soon and the children are just not going to bed. I closed my door, the sign that I am not available anymore for tonight.
Anybody and everybody, at all times, knows my whereabouts and tracks me down for problem solving. This morning for example, I am in the public shitter: no door and only 2 stalls. It is still a little dark at 5:30 and I did not hear a woman coming till she was in front of me asking for some toilet paper..
Thursday, March 20 Market Day.
Saw my first clay cookies for sale on the island. I did not have the heart to ask how much it cost. Spent the day with the children.
Friday, March 21 First Day of Spring
I go to wash laundry up in the hills at the well. There are little trails all over and you think by now I would know my way. I knew the direction but got lost just the same in the labyrinth of branches. It was not the most direct route. A little boy, Johnson, with his water jugs came around the corner to help me back on track as I had gone too far. He stayed for the washing and then led me back the most straight way. While my clothes were drying some of the neighborhood girls came to do some craftwork with wool. Later I went to the orphanage.
Note: On March 21, 2008 Dorise’s mother suffered a stroke at her home in the Alsace in France. She died on Easter Sunday. The journal stopped here as Dorise and Nicholas made plans to leave the island and return to Port-au-Prince to catch flights home, Dorise to France to be with her family, Nicholas to New England. We welcomed Dorise’s return to Acworth, NH on April 30th and look forward to visiting with Nicholas this summer to hear and share more about their time on Ile-a-Vache. Dorise will try to post updates about the school as she is able. John Tuthill - scribe
